Planes, Trains, and Running Shoes

We knew when we planned our trip to Croatia that we wanted to visit Split but when it came time to plan our trip, I found Split to be really expensive and the Airbnb options didn't seem worth the expense, so we set our sights on Trogir, which a short trip from Split by bus or boat and ended up being well worth it!

Our first morning in Trogir, we woke up to a flooded apartment! The Pilot was the first out of bed and stepped into about an inch of water that covered the entire bedroom! That wasn't pleasant!

We got in touch with our hosts and tried to clean everything up as best as we could and get ready - thank goodness none of our suitcases or anything got wet since they were on the other side of the room that didn't get wet!

Trogir feels a lot like Dubrovnik except much smaller and more condensed. We had gotten in late the night before and everything was so dark and quiet. It was really refreshing to wake up to an abundance of light and the sun shining off all of the stone walkways!


Our first stop in Trogir was to St. Lawrence Church, another UNESCO World Heritage Site. We explored the church and then made an attempt to climb the bell tower. Here's a confession: I don't love heights. Neither does The Pilot. We were halfway up the bell tower and I completely chickened out! Nice views are nice views but sometimes, when your stomach is in your throat, it just isn't worth it!

We spent the morning and early afternoon wandering in and out of all of the little shops in Trogir and quickly realized that this village is really small, but super cute!

 

We had probably walked the entire city three or four times before noon! We walked to the Kamerlengo Castle, a fortress at the edge of the village that was built when Croatia was under Venetian rule.

Having seen all of Trogir, we were a little bit lost for what to do next and decided to head into Split, which we hadn't planned until the next day. We took the bus, which took about 35 minutes and was really easy. I have to say though - our first impression of Split was not a good one. The waterfront is a mess and smelled awful! There was tons of traffic and congestion and I was really starting to be confused as to why so many people recommend Split! There were a bunch of commercial retail stores like Mac, United Colors of Benetton, and Birkenstock, which we hadn't seen anywhere else in Croatia.

We made our way into Diocletian's Palace and found a spot for dinner that was recommended by some friends. It was a great family-owned place! Our waitress told us that her parents owned the restaurant. Her mom does all of the cooking and her dad fishes for all of the seafood himself every morning. She and her best friend wait the tables together and the family makes their own wine! I ordered shrimp scampi complete with heads and antennae and I thought my husband was going to leave me when I ripped off a shrimp head and it flew out of my buttery fingers and flew into his drink! He doesn't eat seafood and is really grossed out by it.

Even though we didn't love Split, we wanted to give it another shot though so we booked a tour of Diocletian's Palace the next morning and took the boat from Trogir to Split. This was so much more pleasant than the bus! The boat was insanely slow but it was a beautiful trip!


Our tour was fascinating. We were the only people on it too, which was awesome! We learned all about how the Diocletian's Palace is the oldest living city in the world, built by the Romans and inhabited ever since. Despite its name, it's not a palace, but a city. It was built as the palace grounds with the idea that the city would service the palace. The palace residence no longer stands, but you definitely still get a feel for what it was like in Roman times! It was really interesting to see how much has changed, especially in areas where you can actually see how things shifted from Roman rule to Medieval rule (they kind of ruined it) to the present day.

When we were planning our trip to Croatia, I really wanted to see the waterfalls at Plitvice. Unfortunately, it was going to be roughly a 12-hour trip from just about anywhere we were going and I really didn't want to do that. Doing some research, I learned that Krka National Park also has beautiful waterfalls, and is only an hour and a half drive north of Trogir, where we were spending our last few days in Croatia!


We decided to rent a car in Dubrovnik and drive up to Krka and then turn around and head back toward Trogir. We left Dubrovnik around 10 am. Our first stop was on the Peljesac Peninsula, about 45 minutes outside Dubrovnik. All along the Peninsula, you could see the oyster farms in the water!

See all those black things in the water? That's the oyster farm!

We stopped in a village called Mali Ston for lunch right on the water at a restaurant called Bota Sare.  We had a pretty leisurely lunch - fish pate, oysters, and seafood risotto - which was incredible. This was easily my favorite meal in Croatia!

After lunch, we got back on the road. The drive from Dubrovnik to Krka is interesting because you have to cross the border into Bosnia and then cross the border back into Croatia about five minutes later. Crossing the border is really easy, it's like driving through a toll booth and having your passport inspected, but it was funny to have to do it twice in such a short period of time!


Once we were back in Croatia, we stopped at a rest stop, even though we didn't really need a rest. Why did we stop?


Yea. That was the rest stop! A vineyard dug into the side of the mountain! Perfect reason for stopping if you ask me! Croatia knows how to do rest stops!

We made it to Krka National Park shortly after 3:00. We were told that if we waited to enter until after 4, there would be a discount, but we didn't want to wait that long. I was a little disappointed that we did because I wanted to take a boat ride along the falls but they had all stopped for the day by the time we got there, so there really wasn't any advantage to paying more to get in a little bit earlier.


The waterfalls are everywhere. We spent a few hours wandering all of the paths and seeing different waterfalls from different areas. You're in the middle of this enormous, mountainous park, but it's a really easy walk since everything is paved.

There are a few areas where you can get out and swim, which we would have done but I didn't want to get back in the car soaking wet!

I had been worried that we wouldn't have enough time to see everything at Krka but since all of the boats had stopped running for the day, there wasn't much to do besides see the falls. It took us about 2  1/2 hours to do that, and once we did, we left.

Krka was beautiful. I can't say whether it's better than Plitvice but if you want to see waterfalls and don't want to trek 12 hours from the West Coast of Croatia to the Eastern border, I would definitely recommend Krka! It was well worth the trip, but I am disappointed that we missed out on a boat tour!

With a few more hours of daylight, we decided to stop off in Sibenica, another small town on the way back to Trogir. Sibenica is a sleepy little medieval town right on the water.



We stopped for gelato (I had lemon speculoos, which was to die for!) and wandered around, exploring. We went into the Cathedral of St. James - a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with a lot of history, and explored the shops and laneways.


The sun was started to set so we decided to make our way back to our car, return our rental car, and head into Trogir for the night.

We checked into another Airbnb in Trogir and then headed to the Promenade for dinner. I loved the Promenade! It was full of boats and people and made you feel like you were on the beach! Truffles are used quite a bit in Croatian cuisine and I opted for a delicious truffle risotto for dinner that night.
We walked off our food by getting lost in and out of all of the wandering little alleys that make up the city of Trogir.